Getting ready for first ice

A checklist for the weeks before ice fishing season: gear to prepare, safety equipment, and how to scout spots while the water is still open.

By the FreeFish team · 3 min read · Updated October 14, 2026

Early ice can produce some of the most exciting fishing of the year, but it is also the most dangerous time to be on a frozen lake. The anglers who do best at first ice are the ones who prepared in late fall: gear ready, safety equipment packed, and spots picked out before the lake ever froze.

Scout while the water is open

Late fall is the best time to plan your first-ice spots, because you can still see and reach the water.

• Study depth maps. Early in the season, fish are often in the same areas they used in late fall: weed edges, shallow flats next to deeper water, and the first breakline off shore. Use a depth map to mark these.
• Note where the green weeds are. Healthy weed beds hold panfish, pike and bass into early winter.
• Mark hazards. Inlets, outlets, springs, aerators and narrows often have weak ice all winter.
• Save spots. Save waters and map points in FreeFish so they are easy to find when the lake is covered in snow.
• Check public access. Make sure the accesses you plan to use are open in winter and that you can park legally.

Safety gear first

• Ice picks worn where you can reach them instantly.
• A spud bar to check ice ahead of every step on early ice.
• A throw rope (at least 50 feet).
• A flotation suit or life jacket. Many ice anglers wear float suits designed to keep them on the surface.
• Ice cleats for your boots.
• An ice measuring tool or tape measure to check thickness as you drill.
• A whistle, a charged phone in a waterproof bag, and a headlamp.

Gear checklist

Auger

Sharpen or replace blades before the season. For gas augers, start them at home and check the fuel. For battery augers, charge and test the batteries. A hand auger is light and great for thin early ice.

Rods and line

Ice rods are short (typically 24 to 36 inches) and come in different powers for panfish, walleye and pike. Replace old line before the season. Light monofilament or fluorocarbon (2 to 6 lb) is common for panfish, while walleye anglers often use 6 to 10 lb.

Lures and bait

• Small tungsten jigs and plastics for panfish.
• Jigging spoons and swimming jigs for walleye and perch.
• Tip-ups and quick-strike rigs for pike, where legal.
• Know your live bait rules. Many states restrict moving bait between waters.

Electronics

A flasher or sonar unit with an ice transducer makes a huge difference. Charge the battery, and check the transducer cable and float.

Shelter and warmth

A portable shelter, heater (with proper ventilation and a carbon monoxide detector), a bucket to sit on, hand warmers, insulated boots and waterproof gloves. Pack spare dry gloves and socks.

Where to start at first ice

• Small, shallow lakes and protected bays freeze first. But being first to freeze does not mean the ice is safe everywhere.
• Shallow weed flats and weed edges near deeper water hold panfish and pike.
• The first breakline off a feeding flat is a good early-season walleye and perch spot at dawn and dusk.

Stay mobile. Drill several holes over different depths and cover, and move until you find active fish.

Know before you go

• Check local reports from bait shops and your state agency on current ice conditions.
• Look at recent weather: a long stretch of cold nights builds better ice than a sudden cold snap after warm weather.
• Never go out alone at first ice, and always tell someone your plan and when you'll be back.
• Check your state's regulations for ice fishing rules, such as the number of lines allowed and shelter requirements.