FreeFishMono, fluorocarbon or braid? Choosing fishing line
What each type of fishing line is good at, which strength to buy, and simple setups for the most common kinds of fishing.
Fishing line is the only thing connecting you to the fish, and the type you choose affects how far you cast, what you can feel, how many bites you get, and how many fish you land. There are three main types. Each has real strengths and real weaknesses.
Monofilament
Monofilament ("mono") is a single strand of nylon. It is the most common and least expensive line.
- Strengths: cheap, easy to handle and tie, and forgiving. It stretches, which acts as a shock absorber and helps keep hooks from tearing out. It floats, which suits topwater baits.
- Weaknesses: the stretch reduces sensitivity and hookset power at long distances. It absorbs water and breaks down in sunlight over time, so replace it at least once a season.
- Best for: beginners, live-bait and bobber fishing, topwater, crankbaits, and kids' rods.
Fluorocarbon
Fluorocarbon is denser than mono and bends light similarly to water, which makes it less visible to fish.
- Strengths: low visibility, excellent abrasion resistance around rocks and wood, less stretch than mono (so more sensitivity), and it sinks, which helps baits get down.
- Weaknesses: stiffer and more prone to coiling, especially on spinning reels in heavier weights. It costs more and knots must be wetted and tied carefully.
- Best for: leaders, clear water, finesse fishing, jigs and Texas rigs, and anything fished near the bottom.
Braid
Braided line is woven from many synthetic fibers. It is extremely strong for its diameter and has almost no stretch.
- Strengths: incredible sensitivity, powerful hooksets even at long range, thin diameter for long casts, and it cuts through weeds. It lasts for years.
- Weaknesses: highly visible in clear water, which is why many anglers add a fluorocarbon leader. It can dig into itself on the spool, and knots must be chosen carefully because it is slippery. The lack of stretch can pull small hooks out of soft-mouthed fish.
- Best for: heavy cover and vegetation, topwater frogs, long-distance casting, and as a main line with a leader for finesse fishing.
How strong should my line be?
Line is rated by "pound test", roughly the force it takes to break the line. Lighter line casts farther, gets more bites in clear water and lets small baits move naturally. Heavier line gives you more control around cover and with big fish. A few general ranges:
| Fishing for | Mono or fluorocarbon | Braid main line |
|---|---|---|
| Panfish and trout | 2 to 6 lb | 4 to 10 lb |
| Walleye and finesse bass | 6 to 10 lb | 8 to 15 lb |
| General bass fishing | 10 to 17 lb | 20 to 40 lb |
| Heavy cover, frogs, pike | 15 to 25 lb (or use braid) | 40 to 65 lb |
| Catfish | 12 to 30 lb | 30 to 65 lb |
Braid of the same pound test is much thinner than mono. When spooling braid, check your reel's line capacity chart, and match line strength to your rod's rating, which is printed near the handle.
Tip: For toothy fish like pike and muskie, add a wire or heavy fluorocarbon leader. Their teeth can cut through light line in an instant.
Three setups that cover most fishing
- All-purpose spinning rod: 8 to 10 lb mono. Simple, forgiving and perfect for learning.
- Finesse spinning rod: 10 to 15 lb braid joined to a 6 to 10 lb fluorocarbon leader with a double uni knot. Great for drop shots and Ned rigs.
- Baitcasting rod for cover: 15 to 17 lb fluorocarbon for jigs and Texas rigs, or 50 lb braid for frogs and thick vegetation.
Keep your line in good shape
- Check the last few feet regularly for nicks and rough spots, and cut them off.
- Do not overfill spinning reels. Fill to about 1/8 inch below the lip of the spool to prevent tangles.
- Store reels out of direct sunlight and heat.
- Recycle old line at a tackle shop or a line recycling bin at the launch. Discarded line traps and kills birds and wildlife.